BMW BALANCE
Brakes are just one of the ways that contribute to the “balance” of BMW performance. I mean, any idiot can put a big engine in their car and make it go fast in a straight line — but ask the vehicle to take a turn just as quickly and you need a great suspension to keep up with it. Similarly, once you get a vehicle up to high speed, you need a reliable means to bring it to a stop — in a hurry if necessary. To borrow a well-worn marketing slogan — power is nothing without control. BMW brakes give you that control — provided you replace them when required.
This article aims to communicate the insights gathered while doing my first DIY brake job on my E36. The E46 shares the same basic platform as the E36 (except in the case of my 330, the brakes are just a bit bigger), so the procedures should apply to either model. However, I still recommend you reference a copy of the Bentley repair manual for your specific vehicle to make sure you do the right thing.
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Prerequisites
BMW recommends brake fluid be flushed every two years. Every year would be better. If you haven’t flushed your fluid in that time and you’re about to replace the brakes, it’s a good idea to do that while the wheels are off. If you choose to do this you may find my Brake Fluid Flush DIY article helpful.
To perform a brake job, you should have ready access to the following:
- Rubber gloves
- Brake cleaner (aerosol)
- A parts washer or other makeshift wash basin Permatex Anti-Seize in brush top can (silver is fine, copper is better)Plastilube high temperature grease (essential — don’t do a BMW brake job without it)
- Floor jack (2 ton rating or higher)
- 2 Jack stands (3 ton rating or higher) on lowest height setting
- 16mm standard depth socket for caliper carrier bracket
- 17mm deep socket to remove wheel lug bolts
- 6mm allen (hex) head socket for rotor retaining screw
- 7mm allen (hex) head socket for caliper guide bolts
- 1 or 2 flat blade screwdrivers to aid in removing the retaining clip
- 24″ 1/2″ drive breaker bar for removing lug bolts and caliper bracket
- Torque wrench(es) capable of 22 and 81 ft*lbs.
- One large (“irrigation-type”) syringe (optional; depends on the level of fluid in your brake reservoir).
- WD-40 (optional, depending on whether the rotors come off the car easily or not)
- Appropriate rotors and pads. Include wear sensors if the brake lining warning has illuminated (check realoem.com)
- About 2.5 hours per axle if this is your first time, less if you know what you’re doing. Book labor is 2 hours per axle.